This is what happens when you visit Portugal ONCE… you always go back for more!
And that’s what I call the Portugal effect!
This is my story about how my unplanned trip to Ericeira, Portugal changed the way I travel!
TABLE OF CONTENTS:
- A LITTLE PREFACE
- WHY DID I GO TO ERICEIRA, PORTUGAL?
- WHERE DID I STAY IN ERICEIRA?
- HOW CAN I DESCRIBE THE TOWN OF ERICEIRA TO YOU?
- WHAT DID I EAT IN ERICEIRA?
- WHAT DID I DO IN ERICEIRA?
- 2 Things I Recommend When Traveling to Portugal
- FINAL THOUGHTS
A LITTLE PREFACE
The idea for this trip was simple: keep it as uncomplicated as possible.
I’ve been an avid European traveler for as long as I can remember. Since childhood, I’ve been traveling to Italy with my family, and by my early twenties, I started going on my own. Back then, I was all about the itinerary—packing every day with destinations, activities, and experiences. I never joined organized group tours because I was always confident navigating on my own. Buses, trains, planes, taxis, boats—you name it, I figured it out.
I think most North Americans, when planning a European trip—whether it’s 10 days or three weeks—tend to cram as much as possible into the itinerary. Maybe it’s the “work culture effect,” where we feel the need to maximize efficiency, constantly rushing from one thing to the next. But why is it that when we vacation in Cuba, the Dominican, or Florida, we’re perfectly content staying in one place for an entire week? Meanwhile, when we travel to Europe, we feel compelled to tour half the country.
Ericeira, Portugal changed that for me. Or rather, Ericeira changed me.
All I knew when I booked this trip was that I was flying from Toronto to Lisbon. I had no grand itinerary, no list of must-sees. Just a destination. And somehow, I stumbled upon a place that felt like home.
Have you ever arrived somewhere and, before even stepping deep into its streets, felt an instant connection—like you belonged there? If you haven’t, then you haven’t found your place yet.
Some places don’t just appear on your itinerary. They find you.
This is why travel matters. You hear people talk about “finding themselves” on a journey, and maybe that sounds cliché. But let me tell you, it’s real. That wasn’t my goal for this trip—I wasn’t searching for anything, let alone myself. But I finally understood what people meant by it.
It’s like meeting a soulmate. It’s not about what the place looks like. It’s about how it makes you feel. Everything feels familiar, as if you’ve been there before. And just like that, you know—you’re home.
WHY DID I GO TO ERICEIRA, PORTUGAL?
Picture this: May 2022, post-COVID. Travel restrictions were lifted, and all I knew was that I needed to leave Toronto. Something was pulling me toward Portugal—a country I had never been to and, until that year, had zero desire to visit.
My mother had passed away the year before, and I just wanted to get out. I didn’t overthink it. I didn’t over-plan, which was unlike me. I just packed my bags and left.
I booked a flight from Toronto to Lisbon. As for where I’d stay? I made my decision the way any child would—I played a game of eenie meenie miney mo.
That’s how I ended up in Peniche, Portugal, where I spent 10 days (you can read about it in my previous blog). That first trip left me wanting more.
By September of 2022, Portugal was calling me back. This time, it was a small town named Ericeira. I barely knew anything about it—I just liked the way it sounded. Eri-cei-ra. That was enough.
Most people, when visiting a new country, start with the main cities—Lisbon, Porto, maybe the Algarve. But I wasn’t interested. I wanted something different.
I didn’t want to think. I didn’t want to meet people. I didn’t want to talk. I wanted to go somewhere where I didn’t know the language, where I couldn’t eavesdrop on conversations. I just wanted to be in another place and be there. No plan. No itinerary. No pre-bookings.
So why did I go?
For no reason. No purpose. I just wanted to leave.
And it turned out to be one of the best decisions of my life. It changed everything about the way I travel.
WHERE DID I STAY IN ERICEIRA?
When choosing a place to stay in a beach town, most people either want to be right in the main town or as close to the beach as possible. But this time, I did something different.
I booked a private room with an en-suite bathroom at a guest house called Elemental Ericeira—a shared home where other rooms were rented out to guests. This was completely new for me. Normally, I would stay in town or near the beach, but this spot was 10 minutes from the beach and 25 minutes from Ericeira’s main town.
The best part? I had a car. And since this was a no-plan trip, I wanted the freedom to explore—where? Anywhere!
Staying in a guest house turned out to be one of the best travel decisions I’ve ever made. The communal kitchen, living room, and pool created the perfect balance of socializing and personal space. You meet random strangers, have great conversations, pick up insider tips from the homeowners, and then go about your day.
Most people who book this kind of stay commit to at least a week, which makes for a cozy, low-turnover atmosphere. I expected a chaotic, frat-house vibe (thanks, American movies), but it was the complete opposite. Most guests were remote workers, solo travelers like myself, older couples, and young couples on holiday. Different ages, different backgrounds—but all like-minded in the best way.
HOW CAN I DESCRIBE THE TOWN OF ERICEIRA TO YOU?
Ericeira sits dramatically on the edge of a cliff-lined coastline, offering stunning views of the Atlantic. The town is dotted with beautiful beaches, each unique in its own way. Some are accessible by car, with parking lots at sea level, while others require you to park at the top of a cliff and take the stairs down. No two beaches in Ericeira are the same, and that’s part of its magic.
This town embodies everything about my ideal lifestyle—laid-back, picturesque, and full of character. It’s truly a gift to the world.
The heritage town of Ericeira is beautifully preserved. It’s clean, colorful, and simply charming. Picture whitewashed homes, vibrant mosaic murals, and winding cobblestone streets. I loved seeing local surfers walking through town, boards in hand, effortlessly blending into the scenery.
Beyond the old town, modern residential communities stretch along the outskirts—sleek new apartment complexes and semi-detached homes, all designed to embrace beachside living. Honestly, what a dream! Though I’ve never been to California, from what I’ve seen and heard, Ericeira feels like a smaller, cleaner, healthier, and more affordable version of that California coastal lifestyle.
The town is connected by one main highway, N247, which, on a map, looks like a major roadway but is actually a small two-lane highway. Smaller streets branch off from it, weaving through neighborhoods and leading toward the coast.
I stayed at Elemental Ericeira, located just on the other side of this highway—a 10-minute walk to the beach and about 25 minutes into town. (Map here)
WHAT DID I EAT IN ERICEIRA?
Ericeira had everything I could ever crave. Every restaurant in town was worth visiting—not because they were expensive or trendy, but because the food was just that good. Portugal, in general, is one of the most affordable places to eat in Europe, and fine dining here won’t break the bank. Imagine this: 35-45 euros for a solo feast—a bottle of wine, an appetizer, a main course (which was always fresh fish for me), dessert, and a café to finish the meal.
For late breakfasts or lunches, I usually stopped at a café, which is where I discovered açaí bowls—and let me tell you, instant obsession! There was also a grocery store nearby with fresh produce, so some days I opted to cook at the guesthouse.
The best part? No reservations, no trendy restaurant research, no stress. Choosing where to eat was the hardest part—not because of availability, but because everything looked so tempting. Every restaurant I passed was filled with people, a clear sign of fresh, high-quality food. These weren’t oversized, intimidating establishments; they were small, inviting, and intimate, perfect for solo travelers.
And honestly, my method for picking a restaurant? I’d simply walk by, glance at people’s plates, and if something looked incredible, that’s where I’d go. It was like watching a live menu unfold in front of me.
WHAT DID I DO IN ERICEIRA?
I ate. I walked. I hiked. I read. I meditated. I beached. And I took day trips. I had no concrete plans, but I had a car, which made it easy to explore. Portugal is a small country, where driving from city to city can take as little as half an hour to an hour. In contrast, just getting out of my city, Toronto, takes an hour!
The plan was to do nothing, yet doing nothing somehow always led to something. The difference? Nothing was pre-planned—it was a true “go with the flow” trip. I spent ten days in Ericeira at the end of September and the beginning of October. Here’s what that unplanned adventure looked like:
I WENT TO A LOCAL SURFING EVENT
In Portugal, surfing is life. I happened to be there during a surf competition, though I had no idea it was taking place when I booked my stay. But when a major surfing event happens in Portugal, trust me, you’ll know.
The homeowners of my Airbnb told me about it. The restaurant waiters mentioned it. Even my favorite café shut down for the day because everyone was heading to the beach to watch. The restaurant I had planned to eat at? They relocated with a food truck on-site! That’s the kind of town Ericeira is.
Having a rental car made it easy to change plans last minute. The beach where the competition was held was only a 15-minute drive away. The event itself? Incredible. Watching men and women take on those massive waves live was unlike anything I had ever experienced. I’ve paid to see basketball, soccer, and hockey games in massive stadiums, but this felt different.
In North America, sports events are about status—where you sit depends on how much you pay. Front row? The most expensive. Can’t afford it? You’re in the nosebleeds. But a live surfing competition? Free for everyone, and equally thrilling no matter where you watched from. Some perched on cliffs for a panoramic view, others lounged on the sand, kids sat close to the waves, and media crews were scattered everywhere capturing the action.
This wasn’t just a sport—it was a community event. And it was hands down one of the best live sporting events I’ve ever witnessed.
I WENT BEACHING
The beaches of Ericeira were stunning but not exactly built for lounging in the water. The waves were rough, making the town a surfing paradise rather than a typical swim-friendly destination. There were a few designated safe spots, but if you’re not a strong swimmer, I highly recommend staying out of the water—or at the very least, wearing water shoes!
Surf lessons were everywhere. Different organizations ran their programs right on the beach, and you could walk up to any of them to inquire. Whether you wanted a one-time experience or serious training, there was a spot for every level.
A small but convenient detail? Some beaches had outdoor showers, which was a game-changer after a long, sandy day.
Also, a tip—Portugal’s coastal beaches always have wind. If you’re planning a beach day, bring a windbreaker tent. The beaches are sandy. You’re welcome.
TOOK A DAY TRIP TO NAZARÉ
Nazaré is another famous surf town, legendary for its 100-foot waves. But when I arrived? Flat. Completely still.
It was hilarious. Coming from Ericeira, where surfers were training for a big competition, I expected some action in Nazaré. Instead, I was greeted by the calmest waters imaginable. This country really keeps you on your toes!
Would I go back? Absolutely. But only when I know for sure that there will be waves.
DAY TRIP TO FÁTIMA – THE BIGGEST MISTAKE OF MY TRIP
This is a funny one. My entire Portugal trip was sparked by a desire to visit Fátima, a famous Catholic sanctuary where thousands of people come seeking miracles. My Aunt Rosa had told me about it, especially the miraculous baths in a grotto where people emerge completely dry.
When my mother passed away, I felt lost. I was searching for answers, and Fátima seemed like the perfect place for a spiritual journey. So, I made the trip.
When I arrived, though, I was confused. Where were the crowds? The sick pilgrims? The baths? I wandered around looking for this miraculous grotto, only to have an information desk worker point me to…the washrooms.
Cue confusion.
So I turned to Google: “Hey Google, what sanctuary has baths?”
Google’s answer? Lourdes. In France.
My aunt had sent me to the wrong country.
When I FaceTimed her to tell her, she laughed so hard she cried. Turns out, the tour she had taken never even went to Portugal. “Oh, imma sorry! We went to so many places. I fell asleep on the tour bus. I don’t remember anymore,” she said. Relatives!
Honestly, though? It was one of the best laughs I’d had since my mom passed. I could just hear her laughing at me, saying in Italian, “Che schema!” (“What an idiot!”)
Still, Fátima was a beautiful place to visit, and the day ended on a high note with one of the best meals of my life at Casa Platano. Would I recommend a trip to Fátima? Yes. Would I recommend confirming your destination before basing an entire spiritual journey on it? Also yes.
(If you actually want to visit Lourdes, France, check out this website. If you’re in Portugal, Fátima is still worth a visit—more info here.)
ENDING THE TRIP IN SINTRA
I didn’t pre-book a place for my last few days in Portugal—I wanted to decide while I was in Ericeira. In the end, I chose Sintra.
For those unfamiliar, Sintra looks like a medieval fairytale town straight out of a coloring book. Bright, whimsical, and completely enchanting. I felt like Dora the Explorer.
I stayed at Rosegarden House – by Unlock Hotels, and wow. This boutique hotel, housed in a revived century-old home, was so charming I almost didn’t want to leave. Cozy, colorful, with a library upstairs and a breakfast area downstairs. Even a small pool in the side courtyard!
Sintra itself was just as magical. It’s a place meant for wandering, where every street feels like it has a story to tell. I visited the National Palace of Pena, which was breathtaking, and tried traditional Portuguese meals at random local spots—some of the best food I had.
2 Things I Recommend When Traveling to Portugal
1. Rent a Car!
I mentioned this in my story about visiting Peniche, but it’s worth repeating: if you can, always rent a car when traveling to Portugal. It’s an absolute game-changer.
Portugal is a small country, making it incredibly easy to be spontaneous and change plans on the go—especially if you haven’t mapped out a strict itinerary. Unlike driving in Italy, which can be chaotic, I found that driving in Portugal is much more laid-back. In fact, I sometimes wondered if local drivers ever reached the speed limit or if no one felt the need to rush anywhere.
2. Stop Planning Everything!
For those traveling to Europe from outside the continent, my biggest piece of advice is this: don’t over-plan your itinerary. Not everything needs to be scheduled down to the last detail. Some of the best adventures happen when you go with the flow.
In North America, we’re used to relying on social media to plan our travels, rushing to whatever is trending online. It’s easy to find recommendations from Google or influencers, just like what I’m doing here. But once you arrive in Europe, you’ll quickly realize that while the major attractions are well-documented online, many of the best experiences aren’t.
Ten times out of ten, you’ll stumble upon hidden gems that you’d never find on the internet—authentic restaurants, lively local events, and places that aren’t marketed to tourists. That’s where the real magic happens.
and that’s my story of how Ericeira changed the way I travel!
FINAL THOUGHTS
Portugal, and especially Ericeira, gave me exactly what I didn’t know I needed. A reminder that sometimes, the best trips aren’t the ones you meticulously plan—they’re the ones that unfold naturally.
And sometimes, those unexpected detours, even the mistaken ones, make for the best stories.
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